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A Short Film by Teri Limongi
Credit: Epic TV Climbing Daily
A while ago the GB Paraclimbers were joined by the Epic TV film crew at the famous climbing location ‘Stanage Edge’ in the Peak District. The purpose of the day was to start on some easy routes to introduce trad climbing to those members of the team who has not yet tried it and to attempt one of the top 50 classics ‘Flying Buttress Direct’.
We all met at the car park opposite Stanage Edge early in the morning and met the crew, a gathering of the equipment and making sure we had everyone we set of up the hill to the crags. The film crew’s drone soon went up to film our progress and the stunning scenery surrounding us. The morning was spent on the easier crags getting use to trad climbing and warming up. After some lunch we moved on to Flying Buttress Direct and spent the afternoon there. As daylight faded we made out way back to the cars and set off for Stanage Edge where we intended to do some night bouldering on Deliverance.
We finished the day with a few of us stopping at a lovely Indian restaurant in Hathersage with the film crew before departing our ways.
The finished product is a great watch and what I like about it particularly is the way they have captured the rapour and closeness of the GB Paraclimbing Team. See for yourself below or on the EPIC TV Climbing Episode 1263.
Posted in Outdoor Tagged with: Banter, Blog, Class, climbing, Climbing Daily, Epic TV, Featured, Flying Buttress Direct, GB, inspiration, Lead Climb, outdoor, Paraclimbing, Peak District, Press, Robin O'Leary, Rock day, Stanage Edge, trad, youtube
Easter weekend saw my dad and I take to the road and head south west towards Dartmoor. It was the first opportunity I had had to get outside and hit the rocks this year. With the car loaded to the roof with boulder pads we had a quick and uneventful trip down to Exeter. Leaving the main roads we took the narrow and winding Devonshire lanes and made our way across Dartmoor to Widecombe-on-the-Moor and our destination Bonehill Rocks.
We had arranged to meet up with paraclimber’s Georgia Pilkington and Mikey Cleverdon, this is one of the thing I love about the climbing community there is always a friend or friends to join you for a climb. After meeting up we started on some easier boulders to warm up. Perfect conditions to boulder, cloudy but not to warm but most importantly dry.
We started on the Cube, unfortunately Georgia had to go but Mikey and I continued and a fair bit of time exploring the The Bridge V1 and Under the Bridge V6. Moving on to play on The Dark Side and finishing the day trying to crack the Slopey Traverse V5. It was the last climb at the end of the day that I managed, much to my delight to send it.
After a great first day we made our way to our hotel to a well earned dinner and bed before setting out in the morning to see what Hound Tor would bring.
Day 2 saw us struggling to find a car park space at a busy Hound Tor, made famous by Sherlock Holmes in Hound of the Baskerville. Finally we found a grass verge up the lane and parked up and walked up to the Tor with boulder mats on our backs and rucksacks on our fronts in true climber style.
A few hours trying various boulders and making notes to return to tackle others, such as Shark Fin and projected Cream Traverse V7 which perfectly suited my climbing style being on super slopey holds, hope to return to this one soon. We departed late afternoon to join the horrendous bank holiday traffic heading north. A good weekend and a good start to what I hope are many more trips this year.
I am excited to announce a new sponsor, to join those already supporting me. Just Kampers are a local company providing all things Volkswagen to customer’s here in the UK and oversea’s.
A lot of climbers wish for the sort of life style where they can roll out of bed and straight to the base of a climb in beautiful countryside on a regular basis. This is why camper van’s are so popular among climbers everywhere and why I feel this is a good partnership.
Just Kampers, was established in 1989 and, is a well-known brand in the Campervan industry. Principally a supplier and manufacturer of parts for VW’s it caters for vehicles from the early beetle right through to the latest T6. As well as supplying mechanical parts, it also holds a full range of conversion parts and camping and leisure products. Their aim is to allow those of you with a passion for adventure the most wonderful way of travelling to and staying in the places that allow you to realise those dreams. They are inspired by the outdoors and the people that enjoy their passions within it.
A statement from Just Kampers said “We are exceptionally proud to sponsor Matt and have the pleasure of knowing him personally. We have been continually inspired by Matt’s attitude to training, competitions and his ability to move past and control fear. He stands out as a talented, dedicated and confident climber who we are sure will go from strength to strength. We are honoured to support him over the next year and wish him every success.”
Click to read Just Kampers Sponsorship Announcement
I got my first experience of Font was, a few weeks ago, when I headed off with some of the Surrey Summit squad for a week under the coaching of Robin O’leary and Freddie Nash. The first day was travelling to Font on the Eurotunnel in the back of Robin’s dad’s very spacious van alongside Sam Jenner. On arrival at our holiday cottage, better referred to as a Gite, we all took some time to enjoy the quite luxurious games room and enjoy some Disney movies suggested by Sam Croft before heading out to go on a walk at Apremont to have a look at some of the boulders. We then returned to the Gite for a meal specially prepared by Freddie the chef and then we went to the Gite that the older kids were staying in which wasn’t quite as nice. After a bit of fooling around we turned in at about 1am after our first day in font.
The next day the weather was grim. So we headed instead to Arkose, a massive indoor bouldering wall for a bit of a coaching session. Where we also ran across Andrew “yorkie” York and some of the Vauxwall squad also on a trip to Font. We proceeded to have a few coaching workshops and then headed back to the Gite. happy.
The next day the weather look much better and so we headed to 92.5 where the boulders looked to be the driest. After a fun warmup I got my first taste of Font sandstone which I found was great fun. A few easier problems were tackled that day but the only thing of real note is Le P’tit Toit (6b) a fun traverse on slopers on the edge of a roof made famous by the video “worlds angriest boulderer”. I am happy to say it went second go.
The next day we went to Roche Aux sabotage. Where I did my first 7a!!! After a few other problems we left for the day..
The next day was a rest day where we went into the town and to the Palace.
The final day we went to Apremont. Where we all had a go on science friction an absolute classic. After that I tried a few more 7a’s then we left hopefully to return one day.
A short bit of climbing in the morning before we left for the euro tunnel. After a long trip home we got back very tired but happy with a good week day.