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A Short Film by Teri Limongi
Credit: Epic TV Climbing Daily
The Paraclimbing Blokfest was held recently at the castle climbing centre in London. It was the culmination of many months of effort from a number of people specifically the Castle, Paraclimb London and the Blokfest team who made the whole event possible. The day was broken down into three parts the bouldering the routes and the final to top it off, a long day starting at around 10 and going on all the way to 6. The route setting was done by a team of some of the best route setters in the country and the fine selection of holds on display meant that the route setting was outstanding.
I started on boulders and quickly ticked through the easy ones leaving around five harder ones for the end I quickly managed a few of these including a lovely double dyno set by Ben West which took a few tries to figure out the beta but eventually went very smoothly. This left three of the hardest blocs to go which unfortunately I was unable to tick through but which still left me with a respectable score going into the second half of the competition. The second half was a tope-rope section with three routes. The first two were pretty straightforward but enjoyable. The final route was a step-up with some tricky techy moves. I got about 3 quarters of the way up this one before falling on a tricky press out.
Now it was time for isolation before the finals. Waiting with some of the Gb team for my time to climb which was right at the end the last climber to climb of the day. When I went out the routes was great starting with some easy moves on good holds then into some more crimpy moves followed by a big dyno to a hold on a volume that was hidden, in effect a blind dyno. The last few moves were easy but pumpy and then I dropped the final move due to some faffing with the rope. This still secured me first place which I was vey happy with. Overall it was a good day nd I look forward to next years event.
Below is a video montage of my climbs on the day
It has been an incredible 10 days attending the World Climbing Championships in Innsbruck. I missed out on Paris 2 years ago because there was not enough in my category but this time I competed and the highlight of my competition was becoming World Champion. Here is my final climb at 17.22. The sound of the crowd was amazing and really helped me to get a top.
Posted in Competitions Tagged with: 1st, 2018, Achievements, BMC, climbing, competition, experience, Featured, GB, Gold, IFSC, Innsbruck, inspiration, Paraclimbing, World Champion, World Championships
I was lucky enough to be invited by Shauna Coxsey for the second year to the BIFF Final 2018 at the Climbing Works in Sheffield. This event is unique in climbing compeititons and full title is Beastmaker International Footess Festival. I love the irony of me a climber with one arm taking part in a footless competition. It consists of a number of rounds and then a grand final at the Climbing Works. The Grand final is for the top 10 in each round and by invitation. The rules are simple not feet allowed. All the proceeds go to Climbers Against Cancer.
This is a great fun competition and nothing is taken seriously. The problems are crazy and the challenges even more so. All the problems
are to be tackled without using your feet and optional are silly costumes. This year we had the Incredible Hulk and a flying Nun. The challenges ranged from a 360 spinning volume where you had to rotate it whilst staying on it, a deadhang challenge and Ring Ned’s Bell. This challenge was my highlight as when I took my go Alex Megos had set the record with 39 rings. I gave it my all and beat him with 42 rings. It did not stand for long but I go to beat Alex Mego’s which is all that matters.
The other highlight of the evening was appearing on the One Five Nine Show with Leah Crane. The show was live streaming the final and it was great to appear on the show. You can see my appearance on Youtube.
The Super Final was amazing, the great reveal was a Infinity Campus Board. A huge drum with two campus boards mounted side by side. The finalists went head to head until one dropped off. Well done to Jim Pope and Rachel Carr who were crowned this years Mr & Mrs BIFF. ALso well done to GB Paraclimbing Coach Belinda Fuller who came third in her first BIFF.
We were very lucky this year to have two World Paraclimbing Cups in the UK. The first was in Edinburgh two weeks ago and in Sheffield last weekend. Both were run alongside other competitions which I think is a good thing as it provides more exposure for Paraclimbing.
The World Paraclimbing Cup in Edinburgh was run alongside the World Cup for able-bodied climbers. The ticketed event was sold out and allowed Paraclimbing to be showcased to a lot of people whom it would not of otherwise been. The competition consisted of 2 qualifying top-ropes and a final top rope. Coming 2nd to the German Kevin Bartake taking Silver.
The second World Paraclimbing Cup was in Sheffield at Awesome Walls This was run alongside the British Lead Climbing Competitions and agin brought a wider audience. This time taking Gold topping out my first route and beating Kevin Bartake on both the second qualifier and the finals.
After the Sheffield competition the Paraclimbing team stayed on in the Peak District for a couple more days to allow for some filming to be done with the team, Epic TV and BMC TV. The first day was spent at Stanage Edge where the team went trad climbing and finishing off on the Flying Buttress. In the evening a spot of night bouldering at Stanage Plantation where multiple attempts were made on Deliverance.
The Tuesday saw the team rained off the Grit and so a visit to Climbing Works was the alternative. Thank you very much to Climbing Works who opened just for the team when we arrived as they were not due to open for another 2 hours. A great time was had by all the team and more filming buy the BMC TV crew.
Posted in Competitions, Outdoor Tagged with: 1st, boulder, Bouldering, climbing, competition, Deliverance, Edinburgh, EICA, experience, Featured, GB, Gold, Gritstone, IFSC, international, Oakwood, Paraclimbing, Peak District, Ratho, Stanage Planation, team, World Paraclimbing Cup